17 students of the IfP, together with Prof. Dr. Thomas Diez and Rüya Özkaya (PhD), went to Cyprus to learn about the conflict in Cyprus even more intensively as a follow-up to the seminar "Cyprus - A Conflict at a Crossroads" in the winter semester 2022/23. The protracted conflict, which has kept the island divided roughly into "North" and "South" since 1974 with the help of a UN buffer zone, virtually encompasses all the topics that address peace and conflict studies and the study of international relations, primarily security and peacebuilding and related issues of unification. The reference to these issues is polarized by the different narratives of the sides as well as politicized at various levels of society. Shortly before our excursion began, elections had taken place in Cyprus - the outcome of these was also a recurring part of our meetings discussions.
After everyone had found their way to the capital Nicosia over the weekend, we met on Monday morning (13.02) in front of the beautiful PRIO Cyprus Centre for a meeting with Harry Tzimitras (director), Mete Hatay and Emine Eminel Sülün. After a theoretical input into their work and research focus, we got the chance to ask a few questions that took up the point of contention but also the possibilities of hydrocarbon exploration in the depths of the sea around Cyprus as a catalyst in the peace negotiations. Afterwards we visited the Museum of National Struggle, which presented the history of the independence of the Greek Cypriots and the related struggles against the colonial power of Great Britain.
After a lunch break with plenty of halloumi, we made our way to the northern part of the island through two checkpoints that allow passage to the respective opposite side of the buffer zone in the city. Here we met Ergün Olgun, UN representative of the "TRNC" government. After already seeing the important building blocks of the Greek Cypriot narrative in the museum, this meeting allowed us to get a feel for the argumentation of the Turkish Cypriot narrative. This perspective put the predicament, as well as the so far failed peace negotiations and the prospect of the future success of these, in a different light. We concluded the long and intensive Monday evening with a joint meze dinner at Stoa tou Dimitri.
On Tuesday, we went to the Eastern Mediterranean University in Famagusta, where we met Prof. Dr. Ahmet Sözen and, after his lecture and a Q&A session, we were able to visit the ghost town of Varosha, of which just under three percent has been open since 2020. This decision of the "TRNC government" is highly controversial, as the settlement or the touching of this area is actually prohibited by an adopted UN resolution. The atmosphere in the ghost town was very impressive. Towards the sea you can see picturesque beaches and the water shimmering in various shades of blue; if you turn around just 90 degrees, you will see the abandoned and run-down hotel ruins from a time when tourism flourished here.
Our Wednesday was marked by meetings with different foundations and organizations, starting with the headquarters of the Friedrich Ebert Foundation in Nicosia, led by Hubert Faustmann, who spoke about his work and the difficulties of the cooperation of the Foundation and other organizations with the political level of the island and, thus, the peace process. After a walk to the Home4Cooperation, located in the buffer zone in Nicosia, we met the investigative journalist Sevgül Uludag, who captured our attention with her stories and experiences from the research around the missing persons of the conflict. Thereby she also brought up topics like intergenerational traumas and their (missing) reappraisal into our perception and left us in a moved mood. This shift of the focus from the institutionalized political and security events to the level of society and individuals and their stories was further strengthened in the afternoon by meetings with four civil society organizations: Unite Cyprus Now, HADE, Queer Cyprus Association, and Accept Cyprus. Thus, a long, intense and enriching day came to an end.
Thursday held another visit to the buffer zone for us, but this time to the UN mission in Cyprus, UNFICYP. Here, we had the opportunity to talk with the Force Commander Major General Ingrid Gjerde about the work of the mission and to visit the abandoned former international airport of Nicosia. On this day we were accompanied by Dr. Constantinos Adamides from the University of Nicosia, with whom we were able to talk about the current situation and the prospects of the island. After the visit to the UN, our bus took us through the mountains to Omodos where, after a short lunch break, we visited the Byzantine Timios Stravros Monastery. A wine tasting at the Oenou Yi vineyards was planned for the late afternoon, which took our minds off the preoccupation with the parties and objects of the conflict for a brief time.
Friday morning. The last day together began. Again, the program did not disappoint at any point, because there was still the meeting with Athanasios Athanasiou, press officer at the EU Commission Representation in Nicosia. This meeting was especially interesting for our participants from the MADRE program and our perception of the role of the EU was sharpened. In addition, Thomas Diez was able to organize a lecture by Dr. Christina Kaili from the Mediterranean Institute of Gender Studies, which tied in well with the descriptions of the organizations from the previous day and offered a nice arc here. Whoever thought that we had now already reached the end of the constantly new and insightful program, was to be convinced of the opposite. After an extended lunch break, we rounded off the official meetings at the University in Nicosia, where Prof. Zenonas Tziarras and Prof. Nikos Moudouros told us about their research on Turkey's role in the Cyprus conflict and left us plenty of room for follow-up questions, during which it was clear that we had had an intense week with many ambivalent impressions that shaped our questions and opinions.
Where should the informal part find its conclusion? Well, at the Stoa tou Dimitri at the meze dinner! Had we learned and held back a bit on the first courses of the meze by now? Yes. Were we all a bit tired from the last five days of the program and its impressions? Yes. Did we pack our bags and realize how much more knowledge we were able to take with us? Without any doubt.
Thank you for an incomparably intensive week!
- Text by Maike Berg